With the season now officially labeled as spring and my seedlings breaking soil and presenting cotyledons to the currently meager sunlight, this signals more than green things. It also heralds garage sale season. While I love my local charity thrift shop and the others I stop by occasionally, I really enjoy the variety of items available at garage sales and seeing different areas of my small city. There is one house I have gone to two years in a row and found clothing that I liked and fit me. One purchase in 2008 was a purple chenille sweater I got for only $2. Other items with fond memories: my 5 cent jelly jar, my 25 cent reusable bag with zipper closure and the lovely lotions I picked up for 50 cents a piece. I use all these items regularly and am glad I stopped at each of those three sales.
Garage sales are also my main source of gifts for my nieces and nephews. I have nine to shop for and need all the help I can get buying items for the lot of them. My gift spending account is ready for heavy usage and I am looking forward to finding the next treasures. However, I prefer not go into garage sale season blind. Here are a few ways I get the most of my warm weather weekend entertainment:
Make a list of desired items.
There are things I am interested in finding used before seeking new options. I have already compiled a list of items that want to find. This includes handkerchiefs, kitchen towels, a hoe and a cutting board. I have some specific jelly jars I prefer over others so I will also keep an eye out for these. I will add to this list over the summer season, depending on life circumstances and interests. For the children, I keep an eye out for books in good condition and age appropriate. In fact, I still see toys I purchased at garage sales still being used by the kids and that makes me feel good.
Map out the sales to visit on Saturday.
Even though garage sales are held Thursday, Friday and Saturday, I work during the week so I am limited to garage sales on the weekend only. I prefer to shop on Saturday morning around 8AM and typically visit between 3 and 5 sales, usually for no more than a hour's worth of time. The paper is delivered on Wednesday and I examine the garage sales that are of interest and are held on Saturday. I circle the ones that interest me and give higher priority to the ones that start on Saturday rather than earlier in the week. I then use Google Maps to figure out where the sales are being held and try to create the most sensible route through my city so I am not backtracking. With newspaper ads and maps in hand, I am ready for the road.
Have a variety of bills in my purse.
Having several $1s, a few $5s and some $10s gives me maximum flexibility. I do not need to ask for my $20 to be broken, robbing the seller of his or her change, and I am armed for bargaining. The first point is only polite, but the second gives me an opportunity to save even more. If an item is selling for $5, I can ask if the person will sell it for $4 because I have at least four $1 bills in my wallet. Why would someone agree to $4 and then make change for a $5 bill? Last year, I bargained with a lady to purchase $15 worth of items for $12 because I offered $10 for them and she settled on $12. I agreed because I could pay her in exact bills. I found my collection of smaller bills would disappear quickly during garage sale season so for months, I have been stashing the smaller bills and willingly breaking a $20 just for the change.
Bring my own bags.
As I have written previously, I prefer not to bring home any plastic bags and even refuse bags if I can carry the item in my hands. I keep to this philosophy for garage sales and it benefits both parties. The seller has one less bag he or she has to stash for people who purchase from them and I have fewer stray bits of plastic in my home. Most sellers have been quite happy to put my purchases in the bag I give them and I like the fact that I can carry the bag over my shoulder. In this fashion, I can pick up multiple items without having to juggle them in my hands.
What are your plans for garage sale season?
Showing posts with label buying. Show all posts
Showing posts with label buying. Show all posts
Tuesday, March 31, 2009
Thursday, January 15, 2009
A difference in philosophy
I am a pretty frugal gal. I buy used rather than new, try to figure out how to reuse an item, follow a spending plan that allows me to save for immediate and long-term goals, and live a more sustainable life. Other than a weakness for buying items to stockpile and occasionally drooling over Apple hardware, I stay on the frugal and greener path I have chosen.
This means instead of buying a new television for the age of digital signals, I signed up for the $40 converter box coupon back in December 2007 and was one of the first people to receive the coupon in February 2008. My modest 19-inch television was purchased new at Best Buy in 2000 after my 13-inch TV (new in 1994) stopped working. I found it ironic that the larger TV weighed less than the smaller one.
Recently, one of my friends commented I needed a larger television as we were watching a widescreen DVD. I will admit, more screen real estate would be nice. However, most of my viewing is for broadcast shows and rarely for widescreen movies. What I have suits my viewing needs, and the set is small enough to fit in the corner of my living room on top of my free entertainment center. My plan is to replace my television with a used one when it decides it no longer wants to present pictures to me.
My friend understood my refusal to get a larger television, but his comment reflects a difference in our philosophies. What I have is adequate to serve my needs and I will wait until the item breaks before considering replacement versus his assertion that bigger is better. I am satisfied with what I have. This makes it easier to live a more frugal and sustainable life.
Have you recently come under peer pressure to update electronics? How did you handle it?
This means instead of buying a new television for the age of digital signals, I signed up for the $40 converter box coupon back in December 2007 and was one of the first people to receive the coupon in February 2008. My modest 19-inch television was purchased new at Best Buy in 2000 after my 13-inch TV (new in 1994) stopped working. I found it ironic that the larger TV weighed less than the smaller one.
Recently, one of my friends commented I needed a larger television as we were watching a widescreen DVD. I will admit, more screen real estate would be nice. However, most of my viewing is for broadcast shows and rarely for widescreen movies. What I have suits my viewing needs, and the set is small enough to fit in the corner of my living room on top of my free entertainment center. My plan is to replace my television with a used one when it decides it no longer wants to present pictures to me.
My friend understood my refusal to get a larger television, but his comment reflects a difference in our philosophies. What I have is adequate to serve my needs and I will wait until the item breaks before considering replacement versus his assertion that bigger is better. I am satisfied with what I have. This makes it easier to live a more frugal and sustainable life.
Have you recently come under peer pressure to update electronics? How did you handle it?
Thursday, May 29, 2008
Measure local market values using craigslist
One thing I spend my time doing is checking the various postings on craigslist. My current interests include the "Materials", "Farm+Garden" and "Wanted" categories with occasional peeks at the "Free" listing. The postings are updated daily with more new listings than reposts, but if you are a daily checker like myself, you can see who is desperately trying to get rid of something.
Because I have spent so much time on craigslist (it has been over a year I have faithfully checked the listings), I have a sense of what the value of an item is. For example, I purchased a bread maker for $20 from a person posting on craigslist (still use it in fact), but from my hunt for a bread maker and subsequent purchases, I have a better sense of the value of such an item. Therefore, I know that someone asking $50 is less likely to sell it than someone who asks $20. My feeling is $25 is the market limit unless it is a really high-end bread maker and the buyer knows it value. Otherwise, the seller is unlikely to find a buyer.
So what I have I learned about used items other than the market value of a bread maker?
Do some market research
I have wanted an antique wood commode for a while. Using the search function, I found some listings that fit and looked at the items found. Between my mom's suggested value and the items listed on craigslist, a commode, all oak wood, with a decent finish and small amounts of cosmetic damage (e.g., scratches) will go for at least $200. Larger than average pieces or those containing marble are generally higher ($400 or more).
Looking at similar (if not identical) items you are interested in either purchasing or selling will give you a sense of what the local market will price the item. This requires patience and an investment of time unless the item is routinely listed (e.g., dressers).
Find buying opportunities.
If you spend each day on craigslist and see the same item listed for the same price repeatedly, this is a potential buying opportunity for you--but only if you truly need and will use the item. As a regular visitor, you will see these repeated postings and the dresser offered at the same price for the last three weeks is not likely to be more attractive in the 21st posting. However, if that piece is something you have considered, contact the seller and make an offer. Since the dresser has not sold, you have nothing to lose but the time you took to contact the seller. Be serious about your offer (per your market research) and truly intend to follow through, but this may mean you get what you want at a price that is closer to what you can afford and the seller has a success.
Learn to bargain.
I am still trying to implement this concept fully. That is, offering a lower price that is not an insult to the seller. I have offered $25 for a $30 item listing or $45 for a $55 item successfully, but I am not sure where the line between getting a better value and insult is. Trying to buy items from sellers on craigslist offers you the opportunity to practice bargaining. Since most of my contacts occur via e-mail, it eliminates the pressure that can arise in face-to-face transactions.
Start by asking if the seller would be willing to accept $20 for the $25 item and see if it works. If it does not, you save money by not purchasing anything and the seller can move onto the next potential buyer. Each success will make you more confident to try bargaining further, potentially improving your deals in other nontraditional bargaining locations, like the clothing store or a large-chain electronics store. Practice can only build your skills.
Figure out what sells and what does not.
This lesson is best learned when you try to sell something yourself. The market may be too saturated (bread makers) or too specialized (a traverse double rod at a width of 57"), but you will learn what disappears and what lingers. I sold my used RAM less than two hours after I posted it, contrary to my expectations. I thought the market was too limited, but was quickly proved wrong. However, my swag curtain is still in my possession after an interested e-mail that went nowhere.
Otherwise, repeated listings of an item may give you some insight into how well that item moves. Craigslist is a great local resource for buying and selling items (and even requesting wanted items). Utilize it to your benefit and you may find some great bargains as well as tips on how to sell items more quickly.
Because I have spent so much time on craigslist (it has been over a year I have faithfully checked the listings), I have a sense of what the value of an item is. For example, I purchased a bread maker for $20 from a person posting on craigslist (still use it in fact), but from my hunt for a bread maker and subsequent purchases, I have a better sense of the value of such an item. Therefore, I know that someone asking $50 is less likely to sell it than someone who asks $20. My feeling is $25 is the market limit unless it is a really high-end bread maker and the buyer knows it value. Otherwise, the seller is unlikely to find a buyer.
So what I have I learned about used items other than the market value of a bread maker?
Do some market research
I have wanted an antique wood commode for a while. Using the search function, I found some listings that fit and looked at the items found. Between my mom's suggested value and the items listed on craigslist, a commode, all oak wood, with a decent finish and small amounts of cosmetic damage (e.g., scratches) will go for at least $200. Larger than average pieces or those containing marble are generally higher ($400 or more).
Looking at similar (if not identical) items you are interested in either purchasing or selling will give you a sense of what the local market will price the item. This requires patience and an investment of time unless the item is routinely listed (e.g., dressers).
Find buying opportunities.
If you spend each day on craigslist and see the same item listed for the same price repeatedly, this is a potential buying opportunity for you--but only if you truly need and will use the item. As a regular visitor, you will see these repeated postings and the dresser offered at the same price for the last three weeks is not likely to be more attractive in the 21st posting. However, if that piece is something you have considered, contact the seller and make an offer. Since the dresser has not sold, you have nothing to lose but the time you took to contact the seller. Be serious about your offer (per your market research) and truly intend to follow through, but this may mean you get what you want at a price that is closer to what you can afford and the seller has a success.
Learn to bargain.
I am still trying to implement this concept fully. That is, offering a lower price that is not an insult to the seller. I have offered $25 for a $30 item listing or $45 for a $55 item successfully, but I am not sure where the line between getting a better value and insult is. Trying to buy items from sellers on craigslist offers you the opportunity to practice bargaining. Since most of my contacts occur via e-mail, it eliminates the pressure that can arise in face-to-face transactions.
Start by asking if the seller would be willing to accept $20 for the $25 item and see if it works. If it does not, you save money by not purchasing anything and the seller can move onto the next potential buyer. Each success will make you more confident to try bargaining further, potentially improving your deals in other nontraditional bargaining locations, like the clothing store or a large-chain electronics store. Practice can only build your skills.
Figure out what sells and what does not.
This lesson is best learned when you try to sell something yourself. The market may be too saturated (bread makers) or too specialized (a traverse double rod at a width of 57"), but you will learn what disappears and what lingers. I sold my used RAM less than two hours after I posted it, contrary to my expectations. I thought the market was too limited, but was quickly proved wrong. However, my swag curtain is still in my possession after an interested e-mail that went nowhere.
Otherwise, repeated listings of an item may give you some insight into how well that item moves. Craigslist is a great local resource for buying and selling items (and even requesting wanted items). Utilize it to your benefit and you may find some great bargains as well as tips on how to sell items more quickly.
Wednesday, May 14, 2008
My priorities for car shopping
Since I have some inkling my vehicle is not going to last as long as I would like, it behooves me to start looking sooner rather than later. My goal is to keep using my car until the repairs are cost prohibitive or I am concerned about its reliability. Currently, reliability is not an issue nor are repairs pressing. However, I cannot predict the future so I have decided to do my research now to be better prepared if my situation changes quickly.
What important features am I looking for?
My primary consideration is low gasoline consumption so I am looking for vehicles that rank in the top 10 of its model year for fuel efficiency. Since I use cruise control to help me maintain a steady speed, I require this in any new vehicle I purchase. While I might like the additional hauling capacity of a van or SUV, a car suits me better because the possibility of me hauling large pieces of furniture or drywall is low. I would prefer to purchase a two- to three-year-old used vehicle with low miles (50,000 or less) under warranty if possible. This way, I do not have the sharp depreciation of a new car, but still have many good years left in the vehicle.
What features add value to a vehicle purchase for me?
Both of the cars I have owned (and the car my parents let me borrow in college) had power windows and locks. I find these features convenient and useful since it is easy to raise and lower a window at the touch of a button even while driving. The Autostick ability (as Chrysler calls it) allows me to up- and downshift without a clutch, but my primary driving mode is automatic. The shifting is nice in winter or to lower my momentum down a hill as I head to a stop sign. As a shorter-than-average woman, power-adjustable seats work in my favor and can be changed at a touch of a button while driving if I need to move forward or back a bit. I lived without an inside trunk release with my previous car and did not like it so I would like my next car to have this feature.
What might I like to have if the option is available?
I would love to have a moon- or sunroof on my next car. Even a year ago, I was considering the power and sleekness of a Dodge Charger, but the gas mileage stinks on the modernized muscle car. A sunroof would be a bit of sportiness in an otherwise staid sedan. If possible, I would like to drive a green or blue car. My previous car was white and my current car is red, but I have wanted a blue- or green-colored vehicle for years. Purchasing a used vehicle means the car color depends on the previous owner so my options are more limited. A few more nice features: a place to put my iPod that does not take up a cup holder, leather interior and some nice tire rims.
Considering my lifestyle, my needs and my desires, I have come up with the above list of features for my next car. With fuel efficiency as the number one consideration, the Toyota Corolla and Volkswagon Jetta come up as top picks. Despite the items on my list, I still have to like how my car looks, hence the two models mentioned. I would prefer domestic cars, but Toyota, Honda and Volkswagon rank in the top five for fuel efficiency per Edmunds.com. I still need to research total cost of ownership (I was told VWs tend to cost more to fix as parts are more expensive), but with these basic features, I am ready to move on to the next step--driving the likely choices.
A Toyota Corolla may hit all my important features and even some of my desired ones, but if it makes me feel squished or I do not like the road noise, this is not a model I will consider for purchase. I realize compromises will need to be made when I buy my next car. Test driving some of the likely candidates will give me real-world experience and help solidify my decision or introduce me to new possibilities.
What important features am I looking for?
My primary consideration is low gasoline consumption so I am looking for vehicles that rank in the top 10 of its model year for fuel efficiency. Since I use cruise control to help me maintain a steady speed, I require this in any new vehicle I purchase. While I might like the additional hauling capacity of a van or SUV, a car suits me better because the possibility of me hauling large pieces of furniture or drywall is low. I would prefer to purchase a two- to three-year-old used vehicle with low miles (50,000 or less) under warranty if possible. This way, I do not have the sharp depreciation of a new car, but still have many good years left in the vehicle.
What features add value to a vehicle purchase for me?
Both of the cars I have owned (and the car my parents let me borrow in college) had power windows and locks. I find these features convenient and useful since it is easy to raise and lower a window at the touch of a button even while driving. The Autostick ability (as Chrysler calls it) allows me to up- and downshift without a clutch, but my primary driving mode is automatic. The shifting is nice in winter or to lower my momentum down a hill as I head to a stop sign. As a shorter-than-average woman, power-adjustable seats work in my favor and can be changed at a touch of a button while driving if I need to move forward or back a bit. I lived without an inside trunk release with my previous car and did not like it so I would like my next car to have this feature.
What might I like to have if the option is available?
I would love to have a moon- or sunroof on my next car. Even a year ago, I was considering the power and sleekness of a Dodge Charger, but the gas mileage stinks on the modernized muscle car. A sunroof would be a bit of sportiness in an otherwise staid sedan. If possible, I would like to drive a green or blue car. My previous car was white and my current car is red, but I have wanted a blue- or green-colored vehicle for years. Purchasing a used vehicle means the car color depends on the previous owner so my options are more limited. A few more nice features: a place to put my iPod that does not take up a cup holder, leather interior and some nice tire rims.
Considering my lifestyle, my needs and my desires, I have come up with the above list of features for my next car. With fuel efficiency as the number one consideration, the Toyota Corolla and Volkswagon Jetta come up as top picks. Despite the items on my list, I still have to like how my car looks, hence the two models mentioned. I would prefer domestic cars, but Toyota, Honda and Volkswagon rank in the top five for fuel efficiency per Edmunds.com. I still need to research total cost of ownership (I was told VWs tend to cost more to fix as parts are more expensive), but with these basic features, I am ready to move on to the next step--driving the likely choices.
A Toyota Corolla may hit all my important features and even some of my desired ones, but if it makes me feel squished or I do not like the road noise, this is not a model I will consider for purchase. I realize compromises will need to be made when I buy my next car. Test driving some of the likely candidates will give me real-world experience and help solidify my decision or introduce me to new possibilities.
Friday, March 28, 2008
My money or my (replacement) car
I have been very happy with my car. I bought it used almost six years ago from a man who rebuilds autos. This means my car is more experienced about accidents than I am. As a result, I could purchase a car of its vintage for less than what I found on dealer's lots and with fewer miles. In addition, this guy had been in business for nearly 20 years and if he was no good, I doubt he would still be in business. So my five-year-old car and I were united in human-auto bliss.
Well, not really. Cars in American society are captured by the phrase: cannot live without them and cost you a lot of money. Most people talk about total cost of ownership. I did have to take out an auto loan for the vehicle and paid it off a few months before it was due. Plus there are the issues that come up, oil changes and other maintenance. I just totaled up what my car has cost me over the last six years for oil, parts and repair: $2,600. I may have lost a receipt as I seem to find nothing for repairs in 2003. To add onto my repair bill, let us say it cost me $3,000 over six years. That is $500 per year. Add in car insurance, registration and initial purchase price and that gives me about $2,200 per year I paid for my car. Not a bad TCO (excluding gasoline as I did not have those numbers handy).
However, the story has just changed. The auto shop I visit for my semiannual auto checkup called me after my latest checkup and gave me a list of items to repair and $2,500 estimate for fixing my car. I am used to them telling me $200 or $300 at a time. I choked on the number and was thinking "Crap, I am not prepared to buy a new car." My plan was to drive my car another four or five years, save my money and purchase a newer used car outright. Being the car-ignorant person I am, I called my dad and asked for his opinion. He talked to his mechanic and got some numbers about the items I recalled from my mechanic's conversation and called me back.
I was a bit upset at this point because my dad, while helpful in getting a second opinion and even talking directly with my mechanic, was saying "In your situation, you should consider purchasing a new car where you are covered under a warranty." I completely subscribe to the view that new cars stink, losing value immediately off the lot and depreciating quickly after that. Plus, I could not afford loan payments for a new car. Essentially, I would have to trade saving money for a car payment, not the way I want to go. Needless to say, I was not receptive to Dad's point of view and he ended our conversation on a sour note--at least on my part.
He also encouraged me to add up my repair costs (hence the number above) and talk to him when I got home that evening. I did add up the numbers once I found all my receipts and then called him. I think I will decide to do some of the repairs, which will cost me between $500 and $670 depending on who I choose to do the repair, and still be able to run my car another 20,000 miles or so. This latter number is an assessment from my dad and from my perspective, will give me some time to beef up my car savings account. My found money account may not grow as quickly as I wanted since I have a new savings goal.
Of course, I could be out $600+ in less than a few months if the car just gives it up on me. This is a decision I do not want to make because financially, I am not comfortable taking on a mortgage and a car payment. However, I also do not want my car to fail me. I am quite reliant on it and is my only form of transportation. Well, there is my bicycle, but in my physical condition, a ride would not get me very far. Since I no longer car pool, I really do not have a backup plan.
In an ideal world, I want to pay cash for a newer used car (presumably more reliable), owning it free and clear. In the real world, I may have to consider a new car and the associated loan payment. One advantage to a new car: I can get one with great gas mileage. Right now, I have to decide who will fix my car, my mechanic or my parent's. Then I need to figure out how to increase my contributions to my car savings account. And while I am doing that, I need to research various car models (and years) to find out which might suit me and how having a loan payment will affect me. Just in case my fix is only temporary and the cost to repair exceeds the value, I need to know what to substitute for my current car. Hopefully, I will get the time I need to save the money for my next purchase.
Well, not really. Cars in American society are captured by the phrase: cannot live without them and cost you a lot of money. Most people talk about total cost of ownership. I did have to take out an auto loan for the vehicle and paid it off a few months before it was due. Plus there are the issues that come up, oil changes and other maintenance. I just totaled up what my car has cost me over the last six years for oil, parts and repair: $2,600. I may have lost a receipt as I seem to find nothing for repairs in 2003. To add onto my repair bill, let us say it cost me $3,000 over six years. That is $500 per year. Add in car insurance, registration and initial purchase price and that gives me about $2,200 per year I paid for my car. Not a bad TCO (excluding gasoline as I did not have those numbers handy).
However, the story has just changed. The auto shop I visit for my semiannual auto checkup called me after my latest checkup and gave me a list of items to repair and $2,500 estimate for fixing my car. I am used to them telling me $200 or $300 at a time. I choked on the number and was thinking "Crap, I am not prepared to buy a new car." My plan was to drive my car another four or five years, save my money and purchase a newer used car outright. Being the car-ignorant person I am, I called my dad and asked for his opinion. He talked to his mechanic and got some numbers about the items I recalled from my mechanic's conversation and called me back.
I was a bit upset at this point because my dad, while helpful in getting a second opinion and even talking directly with my mechanic, was saying "In your situation, you should consider purchasing a new car where you are covered under a warranty." I completely subscribe to the view that new cars stink, losing value immediately off the lot and depreciating quickly after that. Plus, I could not afford loan payments for a new car. Essentially, I would have to trade saving money for a car payment, not the way I want to go. Needless to say, I was not receptive to Dad's point of view and he ended our conversation on a sour note--at least on my part.
He also encouraged me to add up my repair costs (hence the number above) and talk to him when I got home that evening. I did add up the numbers once I found all my receipts and then called him. I think I will decide to do some of the repairs, which will cost me between $500 and $670 depending on who I choose to do the repair, and still be able to run my car another 20,000 miles or so. This latter number is an assessment from my dad and from my perspective, will give me some time to beef up my car savings account. My found money account may not grow as quickly as I wanted since I have a new savings goal.
Of course, I could be out $600+ in less than a few months if the car just gives it up on me. This is a decision I do not want to make because financially, I am not comfortable taking on a mortgage and a car payment. However, I also do not want my car to fail me. I am quite reliant on it and is my only form of transportation. Well, there is my bicycle, but in my physical condition, a ride would not get me very far. Since I no longer car pool, I really do not have a backup plan.
In an ideal world, I want to pay cash for a newer used car (presumably more reliable), owning it free and clear. In the real world, I may have to consider a new car and the associated loan payment. One advantage to a new car: I can get one with great gas mileage. Right now, I have to decide who will fix my car, my mechanic or my parent's. Then I need to figure out how to increase my contributions to my car savings account. And while I am doing that, I need to research various car models (and years) to find out which might suit me and how having a loan payment will affect me. Just in case my fix is only temporary and the cost to repair exceeds the value, I need to know what to substitute for my current car. Hopefully, I will get the time I need to save the money for my next purchase.
Tuesday, March 18, 2008
Buying a car can help you pay debt!
I was taken aback by a recent Hyundai commercial. A young man in his late twenties was driving one of the SUVs like the 2008 Hyundai Tucson with the salesperson in the back. (I cannot tell one SUV from another. To me, they all look the same--big!) The young man was enjoying his test drive as the salesperson was highlighting the vehicle's features. One of the last points made by the sales guy was the Hyundai model was less than another brand's comparable and along with the $2,000 cash back, the young man could pay down his debts.
Okay, you are telling a guy to buy a large, expensive SUV so he can pay down credit card debt? Nothing ringing a bell here? I know price point is part of a sales pitch for a car. It typically is price point and features (including safety ratings) that buyers pay attention to. However, the commercial was jarring because if a young man is debt, he is likely financing the SUV, not buying it outright. That means the "cash back" is a gimmick and the buyer goes further into debt, not paying down debt as the salesperson (and commercial) would have you believe.
I know that commercials are disingenuous and want to sell you something thereby adding to the company's bottom line. But in this time of credit crunches, tight finances and concerns about the markets, telling people to buy a new car to save some money is ridiculous. And in this case, save money as you drive a gas-guzzling vehicle--doubly disingenuous. I have only seen the commercial once so maybe Hyundai pulled it, but I was appalled nonetheless.
Okay, you are telling a guy to buy a large, expensive SUV so he can pay down credit card debt? Nothing ringing a bell here? I know price point is part of a sales pitch for a car. It typically is price point and features (including safety ratings) that buyers pay attention to. However, the commercial was jarring because if a young man is debt, he is likely financing the SUV, not buying it outright. That means the "cash back" is a gimmick and the buyer goes further into debt, not paying down debt as the salesperson (and commercial) would have you believe.
I know that commercials are disingenuous and want to sell you something thereby adding to the company's bottom line. But in this time of credit crunches, tight finances and concerns about the markets, telling people to buy a new car to save some money is ridiculous. And in this case, save money as you drive a gas-guzzling vehicle--doubly disingenuous. I have only seen the commercial once so maybe Hyundai pulled it, but I was appalled nonetheless.
Thursday, March 13, 2008
Getting rid of stuff: exploring the wanted section
I have been getting rid of items no longer needed in my life like a second yogurt maker that never saw any use. To unburden myself, I have been listing items on craigslist or other local bulletin boards. Getting a customer is hit or miss as there are lots of items for sale and I have to find that person that is interested enough to actually meet me. However, I have sold two items recently from a different section that I had not looked at before: the wanted section.
On craigslist, there is a section labeled "wanted" in the larger "for sale" section. Usually I am looking to buy something and explore various other categories. However, I found this wanted section is a good place to look to sell items as well.
For example, I found someone interested in buying a yogurt maker of the type I have (five individual serving containers in the incubator). I contacted her despite the price being lower than I wanted to sell it. We negotiated, settled on a price and made the exchange in a public place. I moved one idle piece of equipment out of my home (with a small cash bonus) and she got a yogurt maker she wanted.
I purchased an Entertainment Book as part of fundraiser and regretted it almost immediately. It had lots of coupons, but few I would use. I do not eat out much and not many of the services applied to me. When I saw a listing asking for an Entertainment Book, I offered her mine for more than she was asking. We settled on a price that allowed me to break about even on the cost (I had used a few coupons) and she received the book at a discount.
Now I haunt the wanted listings to help me get rid of unwanted clutter that might be beneficial to another person in addition to listing my own items on craigslist. This is a hit-or-miss method, but so is an electronic classified ad. Having more than one opportunity to find a potential customer increases my chances of selling an item at I a price I can live with--even if it is free. Have you looked at the wanted list lately?
On craigslist, there is a section labeled "wanted" in the larger "for sale" section. Usually I am looking to buy something and explore various other categories. However, I found this wanted section is a good place to look to sell items as well.
For example, I found someone interested in buying a yogurt maker of the type I have (five individual serving containers in the incubator). I contacted her despite the price being lower than I wanted to sell it. We negotiated, settled on a price and made the exchange in a public place. I moved one idle piece of equipment out of my home (with a small cash bonus) and she got a yogurt maker she wanted.
I purchased an Entertainment Book as part of fundraiser and regretted it almost immediately. It had lots of coupons, but few I would use. I do not eat out much and not many of the services applied to me. When I saw a listing asking for an Entertainment Book, I offered her mine for more than she was asking. We settled on a price that allowed me to break about even on the cost (I had used a few coupons) and she received the book at a discount.
Now I haunt the wanted listings to help me get rid of unwanted clutter that might be beneficial to another person in addition to listing my own items on craigslist. This is a hit-or-miss method, but so is an electronic classified ad. Having more than one opportunity to find a potential customer increases my chances of selling an item at I a price I can live with--even if it is free. Have you looked at the wanted list lately?
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